I found this on a German Daihatsu forum at one point. It's a list of what wheels people are running with what tires, if it rubs and if you can go full lock to lock. It is in German but google translate works good on it.
Hello, I am looking for a 2007 Daihatsu Copen, rear spoiler urgently. I live in South Africa, and I am having difficulty finding one. Can someone please assist me in locating a good used one Thank You
So I've got the coilovers, bov and intake installed. I didn't get to get the respray done as my painter caught covid but we'll get that done at the end of this month instead. There's a little sound clip of it all in action.
Yes, I'm going to go 185/50s on my stock wheels next time. Copen's are VERY sensitive when it comes to aspect ratios so it's a bit fingers crossed. Eg. 175/55s do NOT improve ride, they just ruin the handling. Ask me how I know... Whoever goes first should let everyone know how the 185/50s feel after a few kms.
I've bought a set of Nankang NS2 (165/50 15) for my stock rims, they're better then excpected. And for my new Advan Racing RZ2 rims, they'll be wrapped with a set of Nankang NS2R (semi-slicks), 165/50 15 also. Both to keep the OEM ratio.
Go to the main page, choose the category you want. On the right top, you'll see a red window "start a new thread". Click on it and...done ;-)
Hi guys. Has anyone looked into getting a D-SPORT ECU? スポーツECU I'm sure it will just be plug and play (as well as doing spark plugs), but my only concern is that it says it requires "high octane" fuel. I can't find any specifics as to octane is "high octane" to them. They also don't have an email I can send an email to. Let me know if any of you guys have any insight. Thanks a mil.
I got a reply direct from D-SPORT on a YouTube vid they posted. They 100% confirmed that it wouldn't work with EU spec Copens. Looks like if I want to up power or anything I'd have to go for something like a custom remap. Time to research.
Hi all, I found another website to find parts from. Search: 10 results found for "l880k" They have all kinds of aftermarket parts. Also does anyone know how to adjust camber in the rear? I'm looking to run a wider tire eventually and I'd have to get a degree or negative camber to allow for the tread to stay under the arches.
because the rear is non independent torsion beam, there is no camber adjustment, however there is something called a camber plate/shim which is a wedge shaped piece that bolts to the hub to give your wheel camber. I haven't found any specific for the Copen yet. Not sure how safe something like this is though. Personally I don't like the look of this so much.
That does look a little unsettling to me too. I'll keep looking. Hopefully I can find something interesting. If I do I'll put it up here as well.
I have found the solution! 【アヒル商会】アジャスタブルアクスル for DAIHATSU | ＳＵＰＥＲ－ＤＵＣＫ ＣＯＭＰＡＮＹ Custom solid rear axle with adjustable camber and height. Very neat stuff. This might end up being the way I go if they deliver to Ireland.
K-Takeoff Magic Tank install has been successful. After fiddling around with it for a while I never managed to hit a boost cut. I maxed it out at 3 turns on the knob (as said in the manual even though it can turn further). It seems there's a lot more overhead in the UK car's tuning because from what I've read on Japanese forums I've translated say they only get 1.5 turns out of it before hitting boost cut. The manual says you can adjust between 0.1 to 0.2 bar of extra pressure, so looks like I'm at the higher end of that. Definitely a big difference for drivability and fun.
Hi again Nublit, huge improvement, isn't it? As in it feels like a 1.1L inline 6 now! My Turbosmart manual boost controller is able to comfortably go to 14psi before the engine starts to run lean on the stock ECU. I installed a boost gauge & also added an upshift indicator on the dash so I can fiddle. Basically, my tuners & I found the point where fuel starvation occurred, then wound it back until that no longer happened. Then another click [or 2] back to be conservative, good to go. Don't max your boost controller out to 'see what happens'. Make sure you test well into the redline to be sure, as running lean will kill your princess. We got 67-70kW on the dyno with my build. 'Muscle Copen'. Next, you absolutely have to try the, easily reversible, 15min $0.60 "dump to atmo" delete for that massive blow-off noise. As the twin scroll is so tiny, there is no discernable performance trade-off. They just spool up again from ~2750rpm, so if you set daily upshift to 4k, you land back in turbo-land at 3k every shift, conserving the engine. Without the boost controller, that's not viable. Keep us posted! Best regards, Brian
