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Roof - works, but only after I've opened/closed the boot

Discussion in 'Problems, Fixes, Tips...' started by stonemanty, Oct 22, 2014.

  1. 0121johnny

    0121johnny Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2019
    Location:
    West midlands
    Car(s):
    COPEN
    Hi can you provide me with the fault list or tell me what 51 & 81 faults are thanks in advance
     
  2. 0121johnny

    0121johnny Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2019
    Location:
    West midlands
    Car(s):
    COPEN
    Hi can you provide me with the fault list or tell me what 51 & 81 faults are thanks in advance
     
  3. Ahmed Shah

    Ahmed Shah Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2019
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Car(s):
    Copen 2009
    Hey I have the same problem and when I manually opened my boot there are two grey wires one of which is connected but the other one is coming out of somewhere but is disconnected from the other side and I can’t figure out where it came off from please help me
     
  4. Ahmed Shah

    Ahmed Shah Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2019
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Car(s):
    Copen 2009
    Hey I have the same problem and when I manually opened my boot there are two grey wires one of which is connected but the other one is coming out of somewhere but is disconnected from the other side and I can’t figure out where it came off from please help me
     
  5. Kelvin Newton

    Kelvin Newton Copenworld Newbie

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2020
    Location:
    Cambridge
    Car(s):
    Daihatsu copen
    I really need your help could you tell me if it is pins 4 & 12 or 4 & 13
    would be very greatful
     
  6. threepot

    threepot Copenworld Regular

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2014
    Car(s):
    Copen, Hijet, Celica, and Yaris!
  7. threepot

    threepot Copenworld Regular

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2014
    Car(s):
    Copen, Hijet, Celica, and Yaris!
    I have fixed around maybe 40 or 50 copen roofs now, so here is a little guidance from experience:-

    1) Read them for fault codes.
    2) Remove metal ecu box from under boot floor, unscrew the 4 little screws that hold the ECU together, open it up and check VERY carefully for corrosion, especially just above the big black microprocessor "chip". This is the most common fault and sometimes causes errors 51 and 81. Often the plugs to the ECU are a corroded mess too. This is all caused by the typical boot full of water issue. I remove the drain bung from the floor and leave it out.
    3) The two magnetic hall sensors on the "scissors", there are magnets on the boot lid that touch those sensors, make sure they haven't fallen off.
    4) If you get the roof "ajar" flashing all the time, its often caused by one of the hall sensors in the rams that detect the fully open state or fully closed state. You can buy these sensors from BMW as they are the same as a 3 series cabriolet. You need to diagnose this properly before just swapping parts like an idiot though as you will get in a right pickle
    5) There is another hall sensor in the latch on the boot lid, I have seen these fail too, and I have managed to make a new hall sensor out of components and epoxy it into the latch to fix that.
    6) With a good diagnostic tool, you can read the status of all the sensors and switches. This is the key to fixing these really. But most scanners do not talk to the Copen roof system.

    I have fixed quite a few copen roof ecus when they have been corroded. Send me a photo of the circuit board and I will tell you if it will realistically repair or not.

    The hardest ones to repair, are ones where lots of other people have had a stab at fixing them. They often go wild with a power probe and cause more problems. Or get desperate and try shorting things out. Don't go there! Do not damage the ECU any further that the easily repairable corrosion damage. Getting bits for these cars is getting tough nowadays so tread carefully.
     
    Travis and AFR0N1 like this.

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