Got a little blow on exhaust front pipe. Tail is new. Desissions, into the exhaust centre, self fit a new one. If self fit then a single peice or two peice front section. Half a mind to try a rear box delete on the old system first. Looks like some under body braces may need to come out!
BOV has arrived, £45 delivered from here 25MM DUAL PORT SPLITTER TURBO BOV DIVERTER DUMP BLOW OFF VALVE for VW Audi Seat Looks like a clone of The Forge Spliter which is £175 The Splitter, a Recirculation and Blow Off Valve | FMDVSPLTR | Forge Motorsport The outlet ports are removable and on receipt the atmospheric connector was screwed into the recirculating port. This would have been correct had the blanking plug been fitted to the recirculation port but the recirculation port had the straight connector fitted and the blank was loose in the box. No instructions were supplied as the ebay seller stated but there was a confusing note in the box it said. "They require to be installed OPPOSITE to the original OEM valve - by not doing this your car may experiencefluctuations in idle and drop out of boost pressure. This means fitting the bottom of the new valve to the recirculating pipe." This lost me completely and I am going for turbo pressure feed to the bottom port opposite the top adjuster, I guess it a matter of terminology regarding the recirculating pipe but I think they have the wrong implication here. Overall it looks very good quality, adjustment feels superb and I'm pleased so far. Now waiting for some pipe work to arrive before installing.
Just done a dry run installation of the BOV, its going to be tight. Full atmospheric would be easy, full plumb back a little tighter and dual ported very tight and may have to modify the engine cover to accommodate the atmospheric trumpet either by raising the cover or cutting a hole for the trumpet to pass through. Just to note that full atmospheric can even use the existing silicone hose from the main turbo pipework so no additional pipes would be needed. A squirt of silicon lubricant and the hose pops over the 25mm BOV inlet with hardly any effort. Anyway were both far to old to drive around with a full atmospheric so I’m going for a conservative dual port and an occasional whoosh. In stripping the old Denso BOV I found a split in the control pipe plastic spigot (part of the Denso moulding) so that may have been the cause of a little erratic BOV behaviour that's been bugging me. Done a bit of a bodge it and scarper repair for now but the Denso would really need a new spigot machining and glueing into the BOV body.
Little and large or more aptly right now is scabby and shaggy. Certainly scabby wheels, how on earth do they get scuffed half way up! Close to pushing the button on Dotz Mugello
Ugh! If you have the time you can sand them down and give them a nice coat of new paint (I painted mine white). But it takes a few hours....
Yes I did consider that but what with OCD I'd want the tyres knocking off the rims to do the best job I could. Just done the boat trailer wheels and couldn't resist taking the rubber off first. Adding up costs of 4x tyre offs, 4x tyre ons, abrasive, primers, paint and lacquer I was in the ball lark of a cheap set of after market wheels. Got carried away picking cheapest wheels and just ordered a set of Dotz Mugello and new rubber. Whole job done in one hit plus wife goes halfs on the costs.
Well I did it any way with some crappy clamps lying around so will swap them out for nice stainless T bolt clamps. Starting with removing the engine cover Existing Denso Denso removed followed by this little bit of Daihatsu knot of pipes which go in the bin. The small pipe from the air manifold stays fitted but the orange / black valve gets binned and a small plug fitted to the small short pipe stub. New BOV fitted and starting the plumb back. Existing steel plumb back removed, take this off first as it aids removal of the Denso. Now a cut in the existing steelwork as I need some room for the new plumbing. Right hand section goes in the bin, refit the left hand section. And finish the plumbing. The engine cover won't fit even with the atmospheric port trumpet removed. A 6mm nut under the cover rear bracket lifts it nearly enough but not quite there yet. Take of the shaped rubber dowel from the rear of the cover, slip a 20mm electrical rubber grommet over the post then refit the rubber dowel. Replace the engine cover which now fits. Vacuum line is plumbed into the intake manifold after the throttle body, there is so much tick over vac here that the valve holds open at tick over but slams shut the instant the throttle opens. Hardly any whoosh can be heard and non for gently driving as it all gets plumbed back. The adjuster is mostly right hard up. Result is a definite WOW, much improved over the old Denso. Boost builds massively faster and from much lower down in engine speed. Hardly any loss of boost on a fast lift off. Drives better in all respects particularly low engine speed pick-up. Guess who is a very happy bunny !
Well if you do a staight to atmosphere dump with no plumb back you anly need a blank end stopper for the small rubber pipe! If you want a 50/50 plumb back / atmosphere then heres my list below. I did the plumb back in 25mm and then reduced to the 17mm at the old steel plumb back pipe at the steel end. 25mm pipe is a tight install, reducing at the BOV would make life easier and may be neater. No problem with small pipe work here as the 25mm BOV is way overkill for the 660 Copen.. From the main turbo spigot. 1 off 25-22mm straight reducer. Its possible to reuse the existing hose adapter. If reusing lubricate with silicone or ptfe spray or rubber grease or even fairy liquid at a push. Don't use oil or oil based greese! If lubed up the existing will pop on the 25mm spigot of the BOV with ease. From the existing plumb back steel pipe. 1 off 25-19mm right angle reducer. 25-17mm would be better but I could not find one. 19mm is the absolute maximum that can be clamped onto the 17mm steel pipework, I was pushing the li it of good practice here. From the BOV plumb back port. 2 off 25mm right angle bend. Misc stufff 2 off 25mm aluminium couplers. 5 off 30-40mm hose clips 1 off 20-30mm hose clip. 1 off pipe blank for the small existing rubber pipe, I turned a blank end on a lathe but anything would do, perhaps about 5mm diameter from memory. My blue hose is a mixture of cheap ebay silicone stuff. Did I miss anything?
In the end I set my BOV adjustment 10 clicks from maximum and had a slight occasional whoosh on max boost lift off, if you want a goodly whoosh you'll need to set perhaps 20 or 30 clicks from max or go full atmospheric only. This is because the 25mmm BOV is way over sized and most the air gets dumped by the plumb back port leaving little air left by the time the BOV has moved to the second port.
I forgot to add that an ECU reset is a good idea after doing this BOV upgrade. To reset the ECU With a cold engine, propper cold that is. Disconnect battery negative followed by battery positive. Touch both the disconnected wires together for 10 seconds. Reconnect battery positive. Reconnect battery negative. Start engine. Don't do or touch anything, no throttle, no roof operation, just do nothing. Let the engine run on idle for five minutes. Now you're all done, ECU has been reset and it started to re learn some characteristics by starti g with an engine idle speed warm up.
At 112000 miles our Copen has signs that its breathing a little or maybe its residue from a recent turbo failure. So I ordered a little catch tank in hope of observing just how much oil its breathing. Tank was an ebay special and it looks nice, its quite well built. But its empty, just an empty vessel so it's not gonna catch much oil. Need to have a look around the parts bins and see what I can do to make it work properly.
Dotz Mugello 6.5J with 185/45-15 fitted. Sticking out just a touch but very happy with them. Standard Copen cold pressure is 35 PSI but thats with 165/50-15 so I need a new pressure. Here is how its done. Maximum load of tyre is 387kg at 51 PSI (data from side wall) 387kg x 4 = 1548kg (maximum load) 1548kg (combined maximum load) divide 950 (weight of car plus passengers) = 1.629 51 (maximum tyre PSI) divide 1.629 = 31.3 PSI Just schoolboy ratios Really need to clean Buzz up a little and find a good spot for a photo but this for now.
Now that is very interesting, mine has 17s with really low profile tyres on and I've never found anywhere to get the right pressure I'll try and figure out what they should be now - ta v much!
Pleased it is of use to someone. You can play around with the gross weight, I used 800kg for the Copen plus 150kg for passengers. I need to get the car on a weighbridge ideally.
