Looked at disc and it has it's own OBD11 mini software so downloaded that and you then have to choose your vehicle which are listed alpabetically in a drop down menu. No Diahatsu. I tried Toyota but would not connect.
You didn't, I'm not very mechanical minded although I like to have a go, and appreciate yours and anyone's advice to resolve my problems. As I've said previously with my car being pretty rare over here, mine is the only one in the town where I live, and as it's a tourist town most bars, restaurants, shops speak enough English to get by but finding a tradesman of any sort who speaks English is rarer that a win for Hull City !
These appear to be the cheapest JOBD incl postage I can find in my country and on Ebay, just under 30 GBP : AUTOPHIX OBDMATE OM500 Auto Car Vehicle Diagnostic Scan Tool - intl | Lazada.co.th Universal OBDII 2 JOBD EOBD CAN Car Fault Code Reader Car Diagnostic Scan Tool | eBay
I found some instructions on an mr2 forum that seem to suggest you can adapt torque to work...I wouldn't buy pro to try it but see if it works on torque lite since you have it? Step 2: Purchase the 5$ app "Torque Pro" from the google play market for Android. (For you apple guys, the App Store does not have this exact app on there so I am unsure if any of the steps after this are valid) Any android powered tablet or phone should work here. Step 3: Inside of the app you can create car profiles for different vehicles (This app is incredible and is by far the most useful thing I've ever bought as an app because this app and the adapter can be used on ANY obd2 car) In the vehicle profile at the bottom of the profile page is a line that says Very Advanced ELM327. There is a line in that section to add text. The following text should be added to that line: ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100 Once that is complete, hit SAVE and go back into the app. The app is now configured to see the JDM ecu's (that code changed the searching frequencies and some other protocol stuff in the app to be able to read the JDM ecu's) There are some cheap scanners that claim to read JOBD but I'm not finding much solid information, I'm not even certain your car does have JOBD or if it's ODB1, which apparently some readers can work, I've looked through a bunch of stuff and now I'm not certain of anything anymore! I'd try asking one of the Japanese from the Copen FB group but I see what translate turns their posts into, it's pointless unless you speak japanese or they speak english. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autool-C...094038?hash=item1a34269756:g:RRMAAOSwkWNZpRQN Looking at various sites, I found one that says JDM cars use 'KWP' protocols, this one lists 4:ISO14230-4 KWP (5 baud init, 10.4 Kbaud) and 5:ISO14230-4 KWP (fast init, 10.4 Kbaud) Another site lists the JDM Copen as being KWP Slow. I don't know what to advise here, personally I would want to know I could send it back if I bought a £30 reader I wasn't sure worked. I love to research problems but all the information I need is in a language I don't read that doesn't translate well :/
Hey, I've been looking for years for something that can read the Copen OBD port, and also the Sirion I had previoulsy. No go. But this is the first mention I've seen of a JOBD scanner, so I've ordered one of the Autophix ones. AU$37, added to the cost of all the other OBD readers I've bought, none of which worked, isn't all that much. I noted also the info about Top Gear, of which I have the trial version. I have a bluetooth scanner that is supposed to be compatible, so I will try that also. Not too hopeful, because I don't think any of the cheap ELM327 units are programmable in this way; anyhow, there seems to be something different about the Aussie Copens when it comes to OBD function. But if the connector is there, why wouldn't it work? is the question I keep going back to. Real information is as scarce as rocking horse teeth.
Stick a data cable into both an iphone and an android, they'll both have a USB connection you can stick into a pc, but you'll use different programs to 'talk' to each.
I can't find that ELM327 on the torque lite app. There is other settings that has Advanced OBD management to manage available OBD2PIDs but doesn't seem to correspond to the above. If I have time at the weekend I think I will just short the 2 pins and see if that throws up an error code first.
The saga continues : Psyched myself up today to short the relevant 2 pins in my ECU/OBD thingy. Unfortunately I cricked my neck yesterday and I can't turn my head to the left so not the best time to be on your back with your head stuck under the steering wheel! I noticed the cover under the steering wheel is only secured by 2 screws at the bottom (and 2 clips) so I undid those and removed the cover which makes a whole lot of difference, you can actually see the thing - is it an ECU or an OBD? Anyways the guy in the video posted by VP above says he undid the bolt attaching it to the chassis for easy access, great idea? No, I can't shift the 10mm bolt. It's not rusty and I squirted WD40 but it won't undo. By removing it you have it in your hand looking down at it which would make it a whole lot easier to insert 2 wires, while it's in situ it's upside down and a problem to reach. So I had a cunning plan, and with the aid of a torch and a small mirror and a Youtube how to be a contortionist video I thought I had it cracked. I used 2 separate pieces of wire with the aim of joining them together once they were inserted into the correctly identified pin hole. Trouble is , as they were hanging upside down they kept falling out as opposed to my hair which I was now tearing out! One time I did manage to get both pieces of wire to defy gravity and stay there and touched another wire across them and switched the ignition on and DA DA, nothing, zilch, no roof light flashing at me. Maybe they weren't in the pin hole sufficiently to make contact or again that cheat doesn't work on the Jap model? Drenched in sweat I admitted defeat for the day and will try again tomorrow if I can find a way to make the wires stay in their designated place.
Would thicker gauge wire solve the problem? Also did you hit the correct pins? Not that with all these mirror experiments you did it upside down
The ECU is behind to the left of the glovebox, you're playing with the OBD connector. Interested to see how you go, I'm yet to have any lights appear but I'd like to know how to check it.
I was actually using quite thick wire, rather like a paper clip rather than thin electrical wire. I did a drawing of the OBD with the pins I needed to engage and drew the top and bottom as one is smaller and checked a million times but yes, I may have got it wrong! It would be a routine task if the bolt would come undone that's connecting it to the chassis. I can't resume until next week now as I've aggravated my neck and can hardly move off my sofa!
A friend came round today so we opened and closed the roof twice whilst spraying the moving bits with white grease. However, it's deteriorated so much now the roof won't rise at all, one of us has to stand there and physically force it up and the impression we are getting is that the hydraulics aren't doing their job. I'm not sure what the fault code would be for that or even if it would help knowing the code. I think I will have to go to the only garage here where the boss speaks English and see if they can help.
I'm wondering if it's an electrical problem since previously you said revingthe motor helped. It would be tricky but I'd disconnect the plug off the pump and check voltage as you opperate the roof control switch. Have you tried unplugging pump and ECU to look for corrosion on the pins?
It has previously but no amount of revving helped it move yesterday. The rest of what you say is beyond me Jez and I've no idea where the ECU is or what it looks like, but I live in a warm country with hardly any rain so my boot and everything in it is dry in a car that's now 13 years old. Also if it was electric would I not have the same problems opening it? It opens OK as the gravity carries the roof down whereas it needs force/pressure to raise it.
If everything is lubed and does not bind/stick and there is enough voltage going to the pump and there are no leaks - the pump might just be defective and not getting enough oil flow to the roof
@tyke It May be something as simple as a chafed wire or bad earth. You photos showed the boot and pump to be dry and in good condition so I’d whip it into the garage or a good auto electrician and as them to check it out. They’ll be able to do continuity testes on it. You could check the block connectors yourself first. I recall a post on here where a wire had come adrift and if yours has been getting worse, it may be something like that.
@tyke I got an OBD extension cable, about a foot long; this made it a lot easier, I just plugged it in under the dash by feel, and then did everything I wanted on the other end. Not that it amounted to anything. I couldn't get any lights to blink, either. I really admire you for having a go, however. Don't waste your time and money on ELM327 gadgets; they are partly functional at best, and not at all on Daihatsus, at least not in this country. Furthermore, the JOBD reader from Autophix has arrived, far earlier than it was supposed to; only a week after I ordered it. I plugged it in and started it going, and it announced that there were no storerd trouble codes. Well, I can tell you that this is the first gadget of the many I have tried that actually appears to communicate with the ECU. Not that it's a great deal of help, because the MIL lamp has never come on once since I've owned the car, despite a loose plug on the ECU which was causing dramatic misfire problems in the engine. So, I think the diagnostic codes are limited to emission control issues only, and maybe not very many of those.
I did type an update on Tuesday but must have omitted to press the Post button. Anyway I booked it in to a very busy popular garage here for Friday a.m. It's now 3pm on Saturday and I've just rang them and it's not yet ready. He said they have took the pump off and tested the pressure but not yet refitted it. I will keep you informed of the outcome when I get it back !!
Got the car back this afternoon. They removed the pump and couldn't find any leaks so refilled it with new fluid and it works fine now. Labour 2000 Baht or 45 GBP, fluid 700 Baht or 16 GBP. Just hope it lasts a few years. Thanks everyone for all your advice.
