For some time, I've wanted to paint my callipers red on Scootypuff and to change the colour of them. After going to Halfords, I got some of their VHT red calliper paint, calliper wipes, and a "can gun 1". I got some Holts brake clean from MicksGarage. I got a 4 pack of black PlastiDip paint from CarDipUK. PlastiDip is a rubber based paint, which can be peeled off easily if you don't like it. Stock rims and callipers before painting Step 1 - The Hard Work Break the tension on the wheel nuts. I jacked the car up using the towing hook at the front passenger side. I am unsure if I can use another place in the middle - perhaps someone else knows (preferably with photos). The axle stand was then put under the jacking point under the passenger's door. Due to the fact that the halfords jack is not a low profile one, I had to use another jack at the passenger's jack point, to lift the car enough to be able to fit the trolley jack under the towing hook. The car was then jacked the remainder of the height using the trolley jack, and a Lidl axle stand put on the passenger side jacking point. The wheel was then removed. Step 2 - Cleaning For the callipers, you can use a wire brush and water in a spray bottle to remove the majority of the grime and rust from the calliper - remember, the better you clean, the longer and better the paint will be. Put some newspapers under the wheel to catch drips. USE A FACE MASK, and mask off any brake lines, pads, the bleeder valve, etc as needed. You can then use white spirits, or brake cleaner, to remove the last remaining bits (brake cleaner is flammable). Then the Halfords brake calliper wipes were used and the callipers left to dry for about 10 minutes. The wheels were cleaned with an alloy wheel cleaning spray, then rinsed with water a few times. A microfibre cloth was used to dry them, as I was impatient. Step 3 - First coat Calliper Get a small pot (I used an old yoghurt pot) and pour in some white spirits. Your brush should be small - at most an inch wide brush, which is what I was using. BEAT THE SHIT out of the brush after you let it soak in thinner for a while. Dry with kitchen paper. SHAKE THE SHIT out of the can of Halfords paint, and open with a flat head screwdriver. I used an IKEA pencil to stir for a about 30 seconds. Lightly dip the brush in the paint, just wetting the tip of the brush. Start from the top of the calliper to the bottom in single direction strokes. The paint is very thick, and somewhat runny, so best to take things lightly. I didn't take a photo after the first coat, but you want it to be somewhat light. Leave to dry for 40 minutes to an hour. Leave brush to soak in thinners Wheels Put news papers under the wheel, and mask off the rim using either index cards or business cards. I had 750 business cards from my previous job, and they proved to be a treat. Your wheel should look like this. SHAKE THE SHIT out of the plastidip can, for at least two minutes, and then stick it in the Can Gun. The Can Gun makes a HUGE difference. Lightly spray the dip over the wheel, locking your wrist. You want a very light initial coat - say 40-60% of the silver remaining. This is what they will look like after the first coat. Leave to dry for 20 minutes. Step 3 - More coats Callipers Dry off your brush and apply more coats. Coat 2 Coat 4 Leave the calliper paint to cure for about 2 hours, to a touch dry finish. I did 4 coats, and used very little paint, so I will attempt to do the back drums as well - which may be a nightmare. I may touch up the paint in a few weeks. Wheels Remember - light coats, and lots of them. About 6 in total. Try to get into the various nooks and crannies of the wheels, by moving your location around the wheel. DO NOT TOUCH THE WHEEL Coat 3 There looks to be texturing, however this dries away - Plasti is very forgiving. Final coat I allowed about 2 hours for the final cure of the Plasti. It is still fragile, and tearing can occur if you scrape or damage the front. Step 4 - Lower Car Simple, really, but I put a small tear into my wheel when putting the wheel nuts back on :-(
The final product looks lovely. Note the tearing on the wheel nuts (don't bother painting them), and the small hole tear on the wheel from the wheel nut socket of the brace. It takes 24 hours for the calliper paint to dry fully , and about the same for plasti to cure. The longer you leave the plasti, the harder it becomes, so don't go driving right after the painting of the wheels or callipers. I think the tearing will not happen if you leave the wheels to dry longer.
I should point out, that between drying times and making a mess of things, it took 6 hours for a single wheel! Tomorrow I will do the driver's side, and the weekend after next, the rear axle - which I think I can do in one go. The drums might need a bit of work to get the existing paint off. The tin of calliper paint is still nearly full!
LOL, I was looking at the final photo thinking it looks good and will be a good overall look. Then read you had only done the one wheel. How many cans of plastidip did you buy?
DaG has done quite a lot of pimping himself but unfortunately he's not showed us many photos. He's also done a few things to his car as well.
It took me 6 hours to do one wheel! If I had a place to jack up the front at the middle, you can put down two axle stands and do both sides simultaneously. It takes a while, but this is the first time I've properly jacked up ScootyPuff and worked on her under stands. Four cans - one per wheel. http://www.ekmpowershop28.com/ekmps/shops/cardipuk/aerosol-packs-x-4-400ml-cans-232-p.asp Got both black and red four packs, as I'm unsure which one I'd like the most. After the dip has dried and cured, I can put a layer of red on her for accented trims. Now the CarDip stuff is the same as plasti, but looks to have more thinners - it's also FAR cheaper, so great for a test... Dunno how long it will last for, but for £30 / complete wheel kit, you can't go wrong.
wow six hours. I jack fluffykins up from the front on the subframe. Looks nice and sturdy there. why not jack it up on suspension then put axle stand under. then do the other side. or jack car up from usual point at the front. put axle stand under the subframe at the front of the car off centre. Lower jack and put under front of car and have it at centre of subframe. remove axle stand and put under usual jacking point. other side should also be high enough for an axle stand.
Well, the 6 hours is mainly waiting for the brake calliper paint to dry - 1 hour drying time, with 4 coats and the last coat allowed to dry for 2 hours. That and faffing with the jacks just ate up time. I'll get better with the jacks, but still a bit nervous in the event I jack the wrong thing and warp the subframe.
Did the drivers side this afternoon. I plastidipped the small tear / hole from yesterday, and then after I put the driver side on I sprayed it over again with the end of the can. By the end of the can, the plasti in the nozzle has somewhat congealed, and it sputters even if you clean the tip in thinners. Weekend after next will be the rear - the drums look like they will be a bugger to do right with the calliper paint - of which I have LOADS left! This wheel had some curb rash, so I wanted to see how well Plasti would cover minor scratches. After it has fully dried and cured, I'll take another photo.
An old thread, but I thought I would post this page from the manual as I am doing an oil and filter change today so was researching the jacking points.
