I think it's in the drivers footwell. Below the steering wheel behind a panel. I'll check the manual to be sure.
according to the manual, section A1-18. The data link connector is under the steering wheel. I hope that's the OBD (on board diagnostic) your looking for.
Can I plug this GPS tracker into this OBD connector ? I've attached a poor quality photo of what I think is my OBD connector and a photo of the GPS and the link to buy one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBD-II-GPS-...65cc0b&pid=100167&rk=4&rkt=15&sd=161913974368
That's the OBD-II connector. Keep in mind, the OBD-II is live to 12v at all times from the battery / alternator. I'd be a bit worried that your reader / GPS will drain the battery, since it doesn't appear to have an internal battery to drain first. I'm also a bit worried that you might not be able to get a decent signal from the footwell - in which case, you might be better off getting a Y connector (two female OBD-II sockets to a single male) and hiding the GPS doodad just under the dashboard (behind the speedo, maybe) I'd measure the resting draw from your battery and the new draw from your battery post-install of the doodad. To measure the resting draw, get a multimeter and set it to DC Amps. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and attach one of the multimeter leads to the disconnected terminal clamp. Attach the other multimeter lead to the battery terminal. If the current is low, switch to milliamps to get a better reading. Get a reading with the device installed and not installed - this will give you an idea of how much it will drain the battery. The spec in the listing says 22mA when working. I'm calling bullshit on that figure, it's probably over 50mA when running and 22mA when not running.
Thanks Number6. I'm not technical/engineering savvy, I surpassed myself by finding that OBD 11 Connector (is there an OBD 1?) so using a multimeter is beyond me even if I had one. Presumably they wouldn't manufacture or be able to sell these things if they weren't fit for purpose ? I guess it has to be live all the time as if I wake up one morning and my car has been stolen and it's parked up somewhere ready to be dismantled, it is the only way I could trace it. This link has a video (in Thai) but you can get the jist of how it works. This is a similar one but under 30 quid so maybe worth taking a gamble on ? If I get a flat battery I will have to disconnect it. And if I can't get a decent signal like you suggest I can get a connector and move it to a more open position. I've paid around 14k GBP for this car and I can't get theft insurance here for it so I am keen to reduce all risk of losing my cash.
There was an OBD-I, which was manufacturer specific. OBD-II was brought in to standardise emissions diagnostics to make sure a car wasn't polluting above regulated levels. It was then expanded to cover far far more things, with many things manufacturer specific but the majority of issues can be read on any car with a normal code reader. Yes, things are manufactured that are not fit for purpose. I've given up on cheap Chinese knockoffs unless they are basic things like cables or gender changers as they break far too easily. That said, my multimeter is a chinese knock off and cost me a grand total of 3 EUR... at that price, I don't care if it breaks or I burn it out. A CE mark is not indicative that the product has passed ANY safety checks in this day and age. If you know an electrician, a mechanic, or a friend who is handy around the house, I bet they'll have a multimeter you can borrow or test the parasitic draw from the device if/when attached for you.
