Copen's Notch gear selection & Clutch biting point?

The clutch is quite hard to press compared to modern day hydraulic assisted clutches. So I would say what you experience is normal
You can adjust the cable in the engine bay underneath the airbox.

 

Yeah, cable clutchs are a little heavier and a cable wears so slowly you never notice it.
I can hear a small squeak from ours with the engine stopped, not sure if its cable or pedal shaft related.
I'll swap out our cable when I run out of mkre important jobs to do.

Some cables can be lubricated, some go tits up when lubed, not sure of the Copens.

Gear shift is smooth excepting 1st and expecting gear oil change to help here.

 

The clutch in my Copen feels like driving the better half's Copen - both are quite heavy and there is not much forgiveness with the biting point. A bit of a shock if you're used to modern Fords or similar. The Copen teaches you how to drive properly again

 

For what it's worth, the clutch on my copen is very, very, light.

 

Maybe yours is the faulty one then

 

My old car was a pajero... compared to that, ever clutch is a light clutch!

 

When I bought mine it had a new clutch fitted. The garage didn't adjust it properly. Pedal was down to the floor and engaged the minute you lifted your foot. When I got it home I looked under the bonnet and adjusted it. Also they tend to be notchy. Fine ever since.
A while ago I had to have the box taken out to replace the selector seal as it was dripping oil.
Annoying thing is you can't replace it without splitting the box apart@!
When checking the bearings they are quite worn, so I figure they put cheapo's in at factory! Had all the bearings replaced while it was apart.
When I got the car back the clutch pedal was the same & making funny noises so I adjusted the cable again and all is good.
I must say the box on the Copen seem to wine anyway but after the new bearings it runs a lot quieter & smoother.
So, if you have to have the box split for any reason, in fact taken out of the car I would strongly suggest to replace all the bearings at the same time?

 

There are a couple of linkages on the gear selector rods under the car. The joints on these can seize up a little and make the gear changes a bit notchy. You can soak a rag in diesel and tie it around the joints. If nothing else it's cheap, easy and decent preventative maintenance. Beware there's also a linkage hiding out of view behind the exhaust.

 

But why diesel?
I used white grease with added ptfe (teflon) on the joints and it is shifting great

 

ptfe grease is great at keeping something lubricated but needs the joint to be moving in the first place. The diesel (or any other penetrator) works well if the joint is seized or stiff to begin with.

 

Oh ok, its just a bit strange to use diesel instead of regular penetrating oil.
If it is that badly seized up, you could try to replace the sleeves and bolts of the linkage

 

Don't forget that linkages under the car are blasted with water, road debris, mud, salt (in winter) etc which can act like sandpaper when it gets in the linkages and wear them out. If you are looking at penetrating fluid, I use Plus Gas instead of WD40 etc. WD40 seems to be less effective these days so not sure if they have actually changed the formula from what it originally was. WD40 = Water Displacement formula number 40.

 

HI, having just read your blog and I have a leak oil where the select rods pass through the gear box and in the same area as to the rubber gaiter. I would be interested as to wear you put the white grease ,i.e. around the actual box or force it into the actual box joints and is it possible to change gaiter in situ